Gold Plated vs Gold Filled vs Solid Gold: What's the Difference?
Shopping for gold jewelry online means wading through terms like "gold plated," "gold filled," "gold vermeil," and "solid gold." They sound similar but they're very different in quality, durability, and price. Here's the honest breakdown.
The Three Types of Gold Jewelry
### Solid Gold
What it is: Jewelry made entirely from a gold alloy. Pure gold (24K) is too soft for jewelry, so it's mixed with other metals for strength.
Common karats: - 24K — 100% gold. Very soft. Deep yellow. Mostly used in investment pieces. - 18K — 75% gold. Rich warm color. Good balance of purity and durability. - 14K — 58.3% gold. Most common in the US. Slightly paler but very durable. - 10K — 41.7% gold. Minimum to be called "gold" in the US. Lightest color.
Pros: - Lasts literally forever - Retains value (can be melted and reused) - Never tarnishes at 14K and above - The gold standard (literally)
Cons: - Expensive ($200-5,000+ for a simple chain) - Can scratch (gold is a soft metal) - Risk of theft or loss (high value)
Price range: $200-5,000+ for a basic necklace
### Gold Filled
What it is: A thick layer of solid gold (typically 14K) is mechanically bonded to a base metal core (usually brass) using heat and pressure. By law, the gold layer must be at least 5% of the total weight.
Pros: - Very durable (10-30 years of daily wear) - Much thicker gold layer than plating (50-100x thicker) - Won't tarnish for years - More affordable than solid gold
Cons: - The brass core will eventually expose if worn through (decades) - Can't be resized easily - Brass core may cause reactions in extremely sensitive skin - Not "true" gold for purists
Price range: $50-300 for a basic necklace
### Gold Plated
What it is: A thin layer of gold (typically 0.5-5 microns) is electroplated onto a base metal.
The critical variable: the base metal.
Gold plated on brass (standard): - Affordable ($10-40) - Tarnishes in weeks to months - Base metal causes green skin - Gold layer wears off quickly - NOT waterproof
Gold plated on surgical steel 316L (premium): - Moderate price ($40-100) - Lasts 2-5+ years - No skin discoloration - Waterproof and hypoallergenic - The smart choice for everyday wear
This surgical steel distinction is crucial. It's the difference between jewelry that lasts three months and jewelry that lasts three years. At GOLDÈRE, every piece uses 18K gold plating on 316L surgical steel — because the base metal matters more than the gold layer thickness.
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Feature | Solid Gold | Gold Filled | Gold Plated (Brass) | Gold Plated (Steel) | |---|---|---|---|---| | Gold Content | 41-100% | 5%+ | <0.05% | <0.05% | | Durability | Lifetime | 10-30 years | 3-12 months | 2-5+ years | | Waterproof | Yes | Mostly | No | Yes | | Hypoallergenic | Usually (14K+) | Sometimes | No | Yes | | Tarnish Resistant | Yes | Yes | No | Yes | | Price (necklace) | $200-5,000+ | $50-300 | $10-40 | $40-100 | | Skin Safe | Yes | Usually | No | Yes | | Resizable | Yes | Difficult | No | No |
Which Should You Choose?
Choose solid gold if: - Budget isn't a concern - You want heirloom-quality pieces - Investment value matters to you - You want the absolute best
Choose gold filled if: - You want maximum durability at a lower price - You plan to wear the same piece for 10+ years - You don't need waterproof performance
Choose gold plated on surgical steel if: - You want the look of solid gold under $100 - You need waterproof, everyday jewelry - You have sensitive skin - You want to build a collection without a huge investment - You value versatility and low-maintenance wear
This last option — 18K gold plated on surgical steel — is what we believe offers the best value for everyday jewelry. It's why we built GOLDÈRE around this exact combination.
What About Gold Vermeil?
Gold vermeil (pronounced "ver-MAY") deserves a mention:
- Sterling silver base with 18K+ gold plating (minimum 2.5 microns thick) - More gold than standard plating - Better quality than brass-based plating - BUT: silver can tarnish if gold wears through - NOT waterproof - Typically $60-200
Vermeil is a solid mid-range option but falls short of surgical steel plating for everyday, wear-it-and-forget-it jewelry.
The Bottom Line
For most people, the sweet spot is 18K gold plating on surgical steel. You get the warm color of premium gold, the durability of medical-grade steel, and the freedom to wear your jewelry 24/7 — all for under $100.
Browse The Solstice Chain, The Luna Cuff, The Eclipse Ring, and The Aurora Hoops — each built on this philosophy.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is gold plated jewelry worth buying? On a brass base, only for occasional wear. On a surgical steel base, absolutely — it's the best value for everyday jewelry under $100.
How can I tell if my jewelry is gold filled or gold plated? Gold filled pieces are stamped "GF" or "1/20 14K." Gold plated pieces say "GP" or "gold plated." If neither is marked, check with the seller.
Does gold filled jewelry tarnish? Eventually, after many years. It's much more tarnish-resistant than plated jewelry but not as permanent as solid gold.
What lasts longer: gold filled or gold plated on steel? Gold filled has a thicker gold layer, but surgical steel provides a better foundation. For waterproof, everyday wear, gold plated on steel wins.